Games Crashes and Mouse cursor freezing

[Persononfire]

I'm running into two different problems with my computer suddenly, however they might be related! Here's the problems:

Firstly once and awhile (and what seems to be completely randomly) my mouse cursor will just freeze. Now it's just the cursor that will freeze because you can still click on things like normal, but the actual image of the cursor remains in one spot while you move an 'invisible' cursor around. This problem is only fixed with a restart.

The second problem is that randomly while playing a game (So far it seems like any game.) the computer will crash. It either just crashes to the desktop, or sometimes will crash with a blue screen of death, othertimes it just restarts with no error. Again, it seems random. It could be right when you load the game, or hours into it!

Here's what I'm running:

Foxconn 6150K8MA-8EKRS Socket 939 NVIDIA GeForce 6150 Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
AMD 3800
512 kingston DDR RAM x2 = 1G

Now I've tried a few differently things. New video drivers (Tried everything from rolling back, to just reinstalling them.) I got a new powersupply thinking that was the problem, (Used to have a 350w, now I'm using a 550w.) I've made sure there are no viruses and no spyware at all, including booting up in safemode and checking.

The one thing that confuses me is that it also seems like it take my computer longer to boot up now. Any ideas?

[Digerati]

Lots of ideas - don't know if any are good though.

First thought is heat - especially since you said while playing games (assuming something other than solitaire) - games are very demanding, you need to ensure your CPU, chipset, and video card temperatures are not too high. Do you have a hardware monitoring program? Most motherboards come with one on the utilities disk. Motherboard Monitor and Speedfan are two popular alternatives.

If you overclock, don't.

You need to make sure your case is clean of dust and dirt inside, and the vents leading out. Ensure all fans are clean and spin freely. Ensure unrestricted front to back air flow through the case. I recommend at least two case fans in addition to the PSU fan(s), preferably 120mm fans, one in front, one in back.

If using flat ribbon EIDE or floppy drive cables, don't. They are cheaply made and make for great air dams - not a good thing. I recommend replacing all flat cables with round cables of the correct length (or a single loop). They offer much less restriction to the desired front to back air flow, and they look nicer too. Plus, they come in assorted colors. Color-coding all your drive cables makes tracing (and unraveling) a single cable much easier.

Inspect the capacitors on the motherboard for leakage. The caps look like tall soda cans, there will be many surrounding the CPU socket. Look for bulging tops or dried foam, white to dark brown in color, leaking out the tops or bottoms. There is often a K or X or + or some symbol stamped in the tops. These grooves actually serve as pressure relief valves, and generally the source of leaks. Any foam and your motherboard is going - check warranty, many are good for 3 years.

Failing PSU - but you eliminated that.

Failing RAM - To test your RAM, I recommend MemTest86+. Select Download - Pre-Compiled package for Floppy (DOS - Win). Unzip the file to a convenient location, insert a formatted floppy disk in the floppy drive, double-click on install.bat to install. Then, with the floppy in the drive, reboot the computer. The computer should boot to the floppy and start testing your RAM. Let it run for several passes or even overnight. You should have no reported errors. A CD version is available. An excellent how-to guide is available here.

Are you using on-board video or a card? Many card makers include utilities to check GPU temperatures. Many cards have fans and they can fail. Make sure yours spins - they are located on the underside of the card, so it may be tricky to see. If there is another card installed right next to the graphics card, if room, move the other card to another slot to let more air in for the graphics card.

Failing network interface card can cause all sorts of freeze and reboot problems - and slow boots. Often merely replacing the 25 cent cable with one that has not been yanked, tripped over, or chewed upon is all that is needed.

Malware - you said it is clean, but malware can be tricky, and can also explain longer boot times. I have a canned text for cleaning I can post if you want.

Process Explorer is like Task Manager, only it is much better at telling you what is running on your system. From there you can determine what is starting when you boot - and make sure it is not something unwanted.

[Persononfire]

First of all, thanks for the reply! I've been going down your list in hopes of fixing the problem, and trying some things of my own too. Here's the update:

I tried speedfan, the hottest I seem to get is 40C, which if I remember correctly, 50 and below is acceptable.... I could see how it might be tempature, so I'm considering using a large house fan to the side of my computer and seeing if that helps! I actually have quite a few fans in my computer. CPU fan, one fan in the front of the chassy, two in the rear, and one on the side. They're of varying sizes and speeds. I do have the flat IDE cables, however the way they're positioned doesn't seem to be blocking airflow. (I think I will get the ones you're talking about though.) I have a very large case, so it's easier to have things not in the way.

Also, dust shouldn't be a problem. I recently installed many of the components when I upgraded and so I've cleaned the computer pretty well.

I inspected my motherboard and didn't notice any dammage like you were describing. (I recently bought it, so I should hope it's not something like that!!)

I did the Memory test, which took FOREVER! However, glad to say there are no errors there aswell.

I am using onboard video. I don't think they have a fan for the onboard. There is a heatsink however...

I'm using a wireless eithernet card, so it's not a wire problem. Could something be wrong that would cause similar problems with the card it's self? My internet has been working just fine though.

I do use process explorer, and everything that is running seems to be good. However, I do know how spyware can be so if there is some sort of deep clean I can do, I'd try that aswell.

I think there might be some new developments aswell. When I boot up and windows loads, my sound is very crackly and sounds a bit off (Like if you're trying to play a sound with too many processes running or something.) Also, sometimes it seems like even when my computer is idle, the amount of CPU being used will jump up to quite a bit, then drop back down to normal. What could that mean?

Thanks a bunch for your help.

[Digerati]

It sounds as though you have plenty of case cooling - do make sure the side fan is blowing in and not redirecting cool air from the front by sucking it out before it does any good. I have actually seen temps improve by disabling the side fan as it seemed to cause turbulence in the flow, instead of helping out. But 40°C is great - I only get concerned when CPU temps exceed 60°C. The house fan trick is one I use often, but heat from lack of ventilation does not seem to be your problem.

I have not seen wireless cards cause freezing. Wired cards might when their cables or connectors become loose or damaged.

When your CPU is idle, XP does a lot of housekeeping which may account for the CPU usage. This is where a quick look at Process Explorer or Task Manager comes in handy. It may be your AV scanning, or some other legitimate process. But it may also be malware.

Below is my canned text for cleaning a system of malware.
*************
Important Note: For all of the following suggested programs, and before every scan, use each application's "update" feature to ensure you have installed the latest signature/definition files. This is necessary even if you just downloaded the most recent version of the application. Also, please be aware that some of the software is free to home and non-commercial use only. Be sure to read the EULAs before using.

Another Important Note: To avoid conflicts, ensure only one firewall and one "real-time" (also known as "in resident", "in memory", "auto-protect" or "active scanning") scanner program of the same type is running at any given time. That is, have only one firewall, one real-time anti-virus, one real-time anti-spyware, and one real-time anti-Trojan program running at any time.

• Delete Temporary Files - before scanning to rid system of thousands of temporary files. This action often significantly reduces scanning times and may clear out files that are corrupt or are infected with malware. Deleting cookies as well ensures all "tracking cookies" are removed too. Note that deleting cookies will force the manual entry of user names and passwords for sites requiring them on your next visit, so make sure you know them.
  
  I recommend CCleaner. During installation, uncheck the option to install the Yahoo toolbar. Before first use, check Options > Settings and ensure Only delete files in Windows Temp folders older than 48 hours is unchecked.
  
  To delete temporary files directly from the browser without using CCleaner, do the following:
  • Internet Explorer 7
    • Click on Tools > Delete Browsing History...,
      Click the Delete all... button,
      Check Also delete files and settings stored by add-ons.
      Click Yes.
    Internet Explorer 6 or earlier
    • Go to Tools > Internet Options> select the General tab,
      Click the Delete Cookies button, then OK,
      Click the Delete Files button, ensure Delete all offline content is checked, then OK.
    Mozilla Firefox
    • Go to Tools > Options,
      Click the Privacy button,
      Click the Clear All button,
      Click Clear All Information.

• Scan for Spyware - No one anti-spyware program gets them all. Therefore, it is necessary to use an arsenal of tools. Past controversy over some anti-spyware makers' decisions to delist known spyware emphasizes the need to attack on different fronts. I recommend you download, install, and use the latest versions of both of the following:
  • SpyBot Search and Destroy - Do not install TeaTimer
    
    AdAware SE
    
    If you don’t have a current real-time scanner, get one NOW!. I recommend using either Microsoft Windows Defender or SUPERAntiSpyware, both decent and free "real-time" anti-spyware scanners.
    
    Alternatively, AVG Anti-Spyware (formally "ewido") is proving to be an able product, plus it includes ewido's anti-Trojan scanner.
    
    There are many good anti-spyware alternatives - there are more malicious fakes! Beware! Ensure any anti-spyware under consideration is not listed on the Spyware Warrior List of Rogue/Suspect Anti-Spyware Products & Web Sites before thinking about downloading.

• Scan for Trojans - As in the fight against spyware, it is best to hit Trojans with a variety of weapons.
  
  • Trojan Hunter (30-day trial version) - skip if using AVG Anti-Spyware/ewido from above
    
    CWShredder (stand-alone version) checks for and cleans all known CoolWebSearch variants

• Scan for Viruses and Worms - Assuming you have an anti-virus program, download the latest signature files and perform a thorough scan. If you don't have an anti-virus program, get one NOW!, update the signature file, and perform a thorough scan. AVG Free is excellent. I keep one running in "auto-protect" mode, and another for "on-demand" scanning. Remember to disable the running scanner before scanning with the "on-demand" scanner.
  
  Scan with one or both (in turn) of these free on-line virus scanners as a double or even triple check. Some very malicious malware have been known to disable PC based AV scanners. These on-line scanners help compensate for that. Temporarily disable your real-time AV scanner first.
  • Trend Micro HouseCall
    or
    PandaSoft ActiveScan

• Scan for Rootkits - Rootkit is a term originating in the UNIX world to describe a set of "stealthy" tools used to obtain and/or maintain root access. A person with "root" access can do anything. Windows rootkits gain access by exploiting known vulnerabilities on un-patched systems, then use that access to install a "backdoor" to maintain that access to your system. Use one of the following:
  
  • AVG Anti-Rootkit ßeta is proving to be very good and easy to use
    
    RootkitRevealer

• Firewalls - If you are not using a software based firewall, get one of these NOW!
  
  • ZoneAlarm is a favorite
    or
    Sunbelt Kerio Personal Firewall
    
    Important Note - XP SP2's Windows Firewall: Windows Firewall ( known as Internet Connection Firewall, or ICF, in SP1) is woefully inadequate and should be replaced immediately. It only blocks unauthorized incoming access attempts. ZoneAlarm and Kerio block both incoming and outgoing unauthorized access attempts, thus preventing Trojans, keyloggers, and other spyware from "phoning home" with your personal information. Do not use more than one software based firewall.
    
    Important Note - Routers and Firewalls: If you have a router you still need a software based firewall on each system on your network. This is true even if it is a network of just one computer. If you are not using a router, you should, especially if you are using broadband (cable or DSL high-speed Internet). Ensure your router uses NAT (Network Address Translation). NAT is a very effective security feature that provides hardware firewall type features. There are several offerings for under $50.00USD. Some offer dial-up support, and some include a print server for network printing. Using a router also allows you to disable printer and Internet connection sharing.

Remember to re-enable any real-time scanning disabled during these scans when done.

I know that is a lot but this is what it takes to get and keep your systems clean and running at full performance. I recommend all scanners be scheduled to update, then scan daily - mine run in the middle of the night. It is an important part of Practicing Safe Computing to also set up a routine to regularly scan your system(s) manually. Weekly is appropriate.

When done with the above scans, post back with how you are doing.
*****

[Persononfire]

Yeah, it seems like tempature isn't a problem. My CPU is usually around 35-40C. I was thinking maybe somehow the audio drivers were causing it since when I was booting up, the XP long on sounds was scratchy and lagged. So I tried getting new drivers for that, which doesn't seem to have worked either.

I followed your canned text (Although I was already doing most of that before) and everything is clean! So it must not be malware. I tell you, this one is really stumping me.

[keakar]

you may want to consider a reformat and clean reinstall of windows as i did all of the above attemps for simular issues but without the grafics problems and ended up solving it only with a clean slate.

[Digerati]

A format and reinstall is a last ditch effort that should be avoided if possible. It is important to remember that not only do you lose all your data, you lose any and all updates for Windows and all your applications, your email, bookmarks, configurations, drivers, etc.

Did you completely remove the old drivers first? That is, did you uninstall and reboot, then install the new?

So now, after ensuring the system was clean of malware, does it still freeze too?

[Persononfire]

I really really don't want to have to turn to that. I'm aware of what I'll lose. I recently had to reinstall windows a couple times and I just got things back the way I like them! ;.;

I tried completely uninstalling the drivers and then installing them and no go on that either and I'm completely free of malware... Yet still with the crashing! The mouse hasn't froze recently though, but that's a less common occurance.

[Persononfire]

Here's a little update!

I seem to have solved the mouse cursor problem. After contacting the motherboard's manufacture they sent me a link for some Video drivers that have apperently fixed the problem:

http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp_2k_93.71.html

So that's good!

As for the games freezing. I'm still having that problem, but my suspicion is that it's due to me using onboard video. Apperently which cannot handle even the simplest games.

Just to let everyone know, I've not been impressed by this motherboard AT ALL. I regret getting it. =/