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#61
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Well, Apple was notorious for being proprietary. They refused to comply with any AT or ATX Form Factor standards used by the IBM "clone" (PC) industry. If you wanted to attach, upgrade, or replace any part of the Apple computer, you had to buy it from Apple.
They got away with it because they were so big and because their products were of high quality. But their parts were not compatible with PCs. |
#62
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1) I'm curious because, having gone through a similar struggle to get my ancient K64210 to work on a new Mac at home a few years ago, I was thrilled to inherit a K64215 from a retiring coworker, for my (Windows 7) PC at work today, only to encounter the same disappointment as this thread's originator. 2) For the person with the damaged cable--it's just a serial cable with a Mini-DIN connector on one end--not proprietary at all, and also NOT the same as the connector on the K64210 (that, like all Mac input devices from 1986-1998, used ADB, not serial). But Kensington no doubt used the less-common connector for the serial port on the K64215 because it allowed them to use the same size hole in the plastic housing as the K64210's Mini-DIN ADB port. (Lots of things used Mini-DIN connectors; ADB, S-Video, serial ports, Microsoft InPort, Sun keyboard/mouse, PS/2 keyboard/mouse, SGI keyboard/mouse, but only the first two [4-pin] and the last two [6-pin] share the exact same pin configuration with each other.) In any case, all you need to do to replace the K64215's cable is to find a serial cable used to plug a PC-centric serial device into a Mac. (OK, actually not quite so straightforward because I seem to recall that most such peripherals inexplicably used a DB-25 connector instead of DB-9 [even though they only use like five pins], and PC motherboards inexplicably use male instead of female connectors [in violation of good design practice] for their serial ports, but adapters to work around both of those issues should be readily available; a cleaner solution might be to seek out a cable intended for plugging a Mac-centric serial device into a PC... in fact, on a whim I just searched Amazon for "mini din 8 db9 cable" and got a whole bunch of results for what should be a perfect replacement for the damaged K64215 cable!) |
#63
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Yes, still around. Just delayed by two years. damn time travel issues...
I'm now in the similar boat as Tzap on attempting to work with either the K64325 or the K72327U. I'm leaning towards the former due to pleasing form factor and reading Amazonian reviews on button action on the 72327U... mostly all bad. All this is assuming that the new KensingtonWorks driver "package", which I've read has it's own issues, isn't backwards compatible to support the 64215. Which it likely isn't as a search on their site returns zero results for 64215. Huh, maybe b/c I left out the "K"? |
#64
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The only drivers and application software that is available, you can get them from driver download sites like Driverguide. The drivers and support software only go up to Windows Vista. Windows 7 does have a driver that works with the K64215. But the 64-bit version of Windows 7, isn't backward compatible with the old Kensington software. The 64-bit version has mouse controls that you can use to control the Mouse Cursor Speed. Don't know about Windows 8, 8.1, or 10, 32-bit versions if they are backwards compatible to the old Kensington software. Or if they even have a driver that is compatible to the old K64215. Signed: Ensign Tzap |
#65
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Sure. I've even registered here, as there's not many of trackball-related places left nowadays!
IMHO, if you like 64210/64215 models so much, your best option is modding: original serial interface is of no use today, and PS/2 one won't allow to use more than 3 buttons via USB adapter. For example, this is what I've done to excellent Curtis MVP-1 trackball: https://forum.trackballs.eu/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=18 |
#66
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Got a K64325 and installed it this morning (Windows 10 recognized it without an "install" or a reboot). Haven't tried it through the docking station, it's plugged directly into a USB port on the laptop.
So far so good even without the KensingtonWorks package. I'm liking the button action & properties. The scroll ring is functional and smooth. The ball itself has a nice heft but doesn't roll as easily or smoothly as the old K64215 but it works fine. Mine came with the wrist pad that some buyers (Amazon reviews) complained wasn't included. I like the tilt of the mouse housing, but my mouse is on a standing desk surface, level with my forearm at a 90 degree angle to my upper arm. If the durability of it changes or problems arise I will come back to update. |
#67
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Thanks for that info Archie. Don't know if I wanna go to that much trouble... not that I don't have some requisite skills modding factory 'stuff', I just don't have much good experience with arduino. Again, time...
Tzap, how are you liking the K64325? I guess here's my ultimate question for you folks (and no, I haven't googled it yet): Anyone know how hard it might be to custom write drivers for mice? UMDF or KMDF? I haven't coded since the early '80s... so, high school and college. Last edited by recyclergeek; January 22nd, 2020 at 05:46 PM. |
#68
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I took Teflon Grease to the Bead Bearings on the Scroll Ring, and after working the Scroll Ring for awhile, I got it to stop binding. The Ball feels okay, but I miss the fine control the old K64215 TrackBall has. Also, I am cleaning the three beads under the Ball at least once or twice a week. Signed: Ensign Tzap |
#69
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UPDATE:
The K64325's Scroll Ring stopped working suddenly. So, I torn it down to find why it had failed. Dirt and hair had gotten inside, blocking the photo interrupter. But, that wasn't all that was wrong. After I cleaned out most of the dirt and hair. I saw that some hair had rapped around the leads of the photo interrupter. Thus, when the slotted scroll ring was turned, it pulled on the hair, and the leads. This caused the leads to break loose from the solder connection on the PCB. After I removed the last of the hair. I repaired the solder connections to the leads of the photo interrupter. Then used Q-tips with isopropyl alcohol to clean it, the ball beads, and lens. I put some more Teflon Grease on the Bead Bearings of the Scroll Ring. The scroll ring is working good again, as is the rest of the Trackball. But this failure was unexpected. Signed: Ensign Tzap |
#70
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Wanted to drop back by and let you know that I've had good luck on the two K64325 that I've been using. One my employer purchased for me and I liked it so much I bought one for home.
I'm running them on Windows 10 both locations without the Kensington device drivers. they're not a perfect replacement for the older models that I could use an eight ball or a 13 billiard ball. but I'm liking the deal. |
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